Posts Tagged ‘fruit’
Small Kitchen Garden Fruits
My last post encouraged you to plant fruit trees in autumn in your small kitchen garden. It explored advantages of planting in the fall, and suggested some concerns you need to address as you shop for trees at a nursery. In keeping with the spirit of a truly small kitchen garden, there are only a handful of fruit plants that grow in relatively small spaces. For people in temperate zones, these include strawberries, grapes, and blueberries… well, also bramble berries such as raspberries and blackberries, but you should plant those in the spring.
About Strawberries
A strawberry plant requires little space, but you’re going to need many plants if you want to pick enough fruit at once for shortcake, jams, sauces, or salads. Strawberries do well in containers, and you can come up with schemes for stacking containers, distributing them around a deck or patio, and otherwise cramming a lot of plants into a small space. Lots of direct sun is important.
My favorite strawberry planter is a pot with multiple terraced pockets up and around the sides—you fill the pot with soil, and put a plant in each of the pockets, resulting in a kind of hanging garden of strawberries. The growing bag is a more recent innovation for small kitchen gardens: it’s a flexible tube with slits in which you plant flowers, vines, or whatever. I haven’t tried one yet, but if I wanted to grow strawberries on a balcony or deck, this would be my first choice. You might find such planters at your local garden store, or you can click the pictures here to follow links to Amazon.
It’s time to establish your summer-bearing strawberry plants now, though you can plant ever-bearing strawberries on into October. (I’m talking about starting with plants… not with seeds—if you really want to wrestle with seeds, plant them when fresh local strawberries are available in your area, and don’t plan to harvest for a year or two.)
Grapes in Your Small Kitchen Garden
Grapes are another small kitchen garden fruit you should plant in autumn. These make attractive accents when you provide trellises and train the vines up above shoulder level… some gorgeous patio walkways have grape trellises overhead, and a walk through can include snacking on the fruit. With clever design of your trellises and patient pruning of your vines, in time you can open up space near or around your grapes to grow other foods as well. Grapes aren’t good candidates for container gardening, but they’ll be happy planted along the south-facing wall of hour house.
Blueberries Rock
Blueberries rank at the top of my list for fruit to grow in a small kitchen garden. Blueberry bushes grow naturally in a variety of shapes. I’ve sat on the ground in the words to pick from wild, prolific ground-hugging bushes. I’ve stood on tiptoe to reach berries on high branches of hedges that towered over me. Fortunately for the small kitchen garden, blueberries prefer to be pruned heavily. So, you can shape the plants and keep them relatively small if you’re tight on space. Better still, there are dwarf varieties–like the one shown at right–that thrive in containers. You should be able to find plants at your local nurseries, but you can click the photo to read more about this plant at Amazon.
That said, take a look at those azaleas or rhododendron filling spaces in your yard. Wouldn’t it be great to harvest blueberries for pancakes, salads, and cereal from those spaces? Spring-flowering perennials are pretty for a few weeks, but I’d trade them in a second for an annual heap of blueberries…
Don’t Dig Yourself a Hole
In my last post, I threw up warnings about planting fruit in your small kitchen garden. I can’t emphasize enough: it’s work. Taking a lazy garden approach, growing fruit may put you over the top. Strawberries, for example, wear themselves out and you usually need to replant after two or three years of harvest. Every strawberry plant I’ve started from seed waited two years before producing berries, hence the encouragement for you to start with growing plants.
Blueberries demand acid soil—if you live in limestone country (I do), you might be adding a lot of compost, mulch, and chemicals (if that’s your thing) to keep the plants happy. Oh, and there’s that pruning thing: blueberry plants in small kitchen gardens tend to get too little pruning.
Grapes, apples, peaches, and pears all give their best production when you prune properly (a big topic for another day). Insects, birds, and rodents seem to like the sugar in fruit… and, perhaps, the moisture—I find it easier to protect my vegetables than to protect my fruit crops. (I hate it when I see robins picking my blueberries before they’re fully ripe.)
Finally, there are several issues related to production of good fruit. Without countermeasures, insects will make your apples very unappealing. Without culling of young fruit in the spring, your peach trees may be so prolific that the fruits will be quite small.
Harvesting Fruit
Here’s something you rarely hear anyone complain about: fruit is ready when it’s ready. You can manage peaches, pears, and apples to spread the harvest out over several weeks—even months for apples. However, a full-grown tree might produce many bushels of apples, and if you plan to eat them you simply must get them off the tree before they freeze or rot in late autumn. All other fruit also hits a wall, and when you have a whole tree… or two or three… you must deal with it in its time.
And the back-stressing work that bothers a lazy gardener? Windfalls. Especially apples tend to fall and rot on your lawn. (Peaches and pears rot just fine on the tree.) The rotting fruit attracts insects and rodents and gets pretty unpleasant under foot. Plums are worse. They make slippery slimy spots that can be as effective as banana peels in helping you get horizontal… and the juice can stain your clothing. When you’re a kid playing under your grandmother’s plum tree, that’s kinda cool, but in my lazy garden, I have no enthusiasm for the mess.
As Autumn Arrives, Plant Fruit Trees!
As Autumn Arrives, Plant Fruit Trees!
We’re about to roll into September, so it’s hard to think clearly about next spring’s small kitchen garden. But this is an important time to do just that—especially if you want to grow fruit. You don’t need to rush out immediately, but if you want to plant perennial fruit-producers, autumn is the best time to do it. Thinking about it now can save some energy in autumn… and if you need to order plants through the mail because you can’t find them locally, it’s good to get a head start.
Fruit for Your Small Kitchen Garden
OK, not all perennial fruit plants want to be planted in the fall. Forget about brambles: raspberries, blackberries, and loganberries. They prefer spring planting. However, blueberries, grapes, apples, cherries, pears, peaches, and plums will all do best when you plant them in the fall. You can also plant strawberries, but as October approaches, select ever-bearing plants; summer-bearing plants should be in by the end of September. (My summer-bearing plants have sprouted new stolons—runners—in the past two weeks; they know when they like to be planted.)
Don’t you Plant Fruit Trees in Spring?

There’s a serious culture of people who plant fruit trees in the spring. That’s OK, but it creates challenges for the owner of a small kitchen garden. When you start in the spring, you introduce young, tender plants that are emerging from sleep. These plants are going to need a lot of water to get established, and in only two or three months, water could be scarce. Equally challenging: summer heat puts extra stress on plants. You might soon be pumping even more water to keep the tree perky.
Planting in the fall provides several advantages:
- Even as the air temperature plummets, soil cools down more slowly; roots will continue to grow into November or even December.
- With autumn comes the rain. It’s not a rule, but even if rainfall doesn’t increase in autumn, your new plantings are going dormant so they simply don’t need as much water.
- Perennials don’t need so much fertilizer when they’re going dormant. If you plant in the fall, you can leave off the fertilizer until the ground starts to thaw in March.
A perennial that you plant in the fall will most likely be much happier in the spring than one that you plant in the spring. By planting in the fall, you leave more time in the spring that you can use to plant spring vegetables… or sit in your easy chair.
Plant Fruit Trees for a Small Kitchen Garden?
It seems I’m often encouraging you to depart from the basic premise of this blog: a small kitchen garden is one that provides food you consume throughout the growing season… with little left to store or give away. It’s hard to grow fruit trees that provide such a modest amount of fruit without serious human intervention early in the season.

But what if you want to have fruit growing in your yard? In fact, your entire small kitchen garden could be a single fruit tree. (I hope we can still be friends.) Clever nursery operators have designed dwarf varieties of apple, pear, and peach trees that produce full-sized fruit. For those who have, perhaps, only a patio, deck, or balcony, there are even trees that will thrive in containers. Sadly, for some types of fruit trees, there are no dwarf varieties. For example, a sour cherry tree grows a crown out to 15 feet or more, and a sweet cherry tree is going to be twice that diameter! Plums have the same problem. Make it clear to the salesperson (or sales web site) when you buy your plants exactly how much space the tree(s) will have. And ask whether the trees are self-pollinating. In some cases, if you buy one tree, you’re going to need a second or you won’t get any fruit.
While dwarf trees might fit in your small kitchen garden, look around for trees that have several varieties of fruit grafted onto a single plant. These may require more space, but they solve pollination challenges, and they provide variety in limited space. My dad once planted an apple tree that produced five types of apples. I’m sure you can find similar chimeras at your local garden store.
To Be Continued…
Please don’t dive into fruit-growing without considerable thought. As a truly lazy gardener, I can assure you: it’s much more of a pain to care for perennial fruit trees than it is to care for annual vegetables. With vegetables, you plant in the spring, harvest through the summer, and put it all to bed for the winter. Even a single fruit tree can provide year-round chores: mulching, fertilizing, pruning, culling, spraying, watering… to get the best production, all these things matter.
I grow fruit because the trees came with my yard. I’d miss them if they weren’t here, but I sometimes resent their demands for attention. Worse: when I neglect them, I’m annoyed that they don’t shrug their shoulders and produce good fruit anyway.
My next post will continue this topic about planting fruit in the fall—with even greater emphasis on the small kitchen garden. Please check back and I’ll encourage you to plant fruits that are best suited for gardeners with very limited space.
Here’s another article with further thoughts about planitng fruit:
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Fruit Trees – If you select a fruit tree which needs a mate in order to produce fruits, you’ll also need to make sure you plant the two trees close enough together. Putting them at opposite ends of your large yard may cause you to never have any …










