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Grafting in my Small Kitchen Garden

Thursday Mar 12, 2009

A new graft in my apple tree awaits warmer weather. With luck, sap will rise from the host tree into the scions and trigger vigorous growth that comingles cells from two plants, resulting in a single plant.

How about a crazy science experiment that you can do in your small kitchen garden? I’m talking about combining pieces from two organisms into a single organism that continues living and growing as if this were a natural chain of events. Make a chimera: graft fruit trees.

Grafting fruit trees is the most exotic, satisfying gardening I’ve ever done. It has extended the life of a useless tree, and nearly doubled the apples I harvest each fall.

Why I Graft

My small kitchen garden boasts six mature fruit trees: three apple, one pear, and one peach tree that came with the house, and a second peach tree we planted when the original fell over several years ago (the fallen tree still produces a good crop of peaches each summer). One of my apple trees produces delightful red apples that are great for eating and for cooking. Another produces red apples that are crisp and flavorless, though they always look great. The third tree produces green blemished, scabby apples that are mostly water and have no flavor.

Last winter’s graft looks messy, though I did remove one scion after they both started growing. As sloppy as this looks, in two more growing seasons it’s likely to smooth out, and in four or five seasons, the branch will be a consistant diameter; you won’t notice the grafting scar if you don’t look for it.

After six years of despising the green apple tree, I was ready to cut it down and make room for a replacement. I had bow saw in hand when it dawned on me: I’d always been fascinated by grafting; here was the perfect chance to try it.

Grafting is Easy

For a project that resembles the work of Doctor Frankenstein, grafting is surprisingly easy to do. It’s easiest to graft onto a tree that you’ve pruned for the past two seasons; such a tree will have young, thin branches ideal to receive scions taken from another tree.

Grafting is a late winter activity, though you can graft as long as your trees are dormant. A graft can essentially drown in sap if you assemble it while the tree is active. When terminal leaf buds become plump and ready to open, stop pruning and grafting.

As a winter project, grafting gets you outside when most people aren’t in their yards. For me it’s a quiet, contemplative time when I meet unsuspecting birds who alight before they notice there’s a human in their tree.

My homemade gear bucket holds bypass pruners, a utility knife, cotton twine, and tree wound dressing. I have a similar bucket to hold grafting stock that I carve into scions as I assemble a graft.

How to Make a Graft: Equipment

It takes me from five to ten minutes to assemble a graft. That’s long enough that I want to be comfortable while I’m working. It takes two hands, so I like to have a stable perch; I usually work on a step ladder. It provides a stable base and something to lean against or sit on depending on circumstances.

To gather stock from which to make scions, I use typical pruning gear (I wrote about it in Prune Fruit Trees – 2). I also use a retractable utility knife, a ball of cotton twine, and a container of tree wound dressing. I carry these in makeshift buckets I cut out of gallon milk jugs. Each jug has twine strung through its handle and up through its neck to encourage it to hang upright from a tree branch where I’m working.

While I’m grafting, I constantly shift gear among my bucket, my pockets, rungs on the ladder, and tree branches.

What, no Grafting Knife?

There are several styles of knives available called “grafting knives.” One style of grafting knife is supposed to be ideal for bud grafting, which I haven’t yet tried. Another style would obviously be useful for the types of grafts I make. Such a knife costs close to thirty dollars. My utility knife cost about four dollars, and replacement blades come in inexpensive packs of 5. Were I to snap a blade on my utility knife each season (I tend to snap one every third year), I’d spend less in 20 years than I would to buy a grafting knife.

If I were developing nursery-quality grafting skillls, I’d invest in specialized tools. There are some clever, expensive devices that will fit scions to large branches, or mate two branches of identical diameters. The technique I use is somewhat primitive, but it works… and it’s a bargain.

If it’s not cold in late winter, it may already be too late for grafting. Given the coldness, warm clothes are useful… but don’t wear garments you like. I’ve slopped tree wound dressing on winter coats, pants, sneakers, and gloves… tree wound dressing doesn’t wash out easily.

Get Grafting

I’ll continue a written discussion about grafting in my next post. In the meantime, I’ve created a video that takes you through every step. The video is nine minutes and 50 seconds long, and includes close-up photos of critical issues. It’s much better information than I had when I started grafting, and it should be enough to get you going. Please watch, and check back here soon for further details and thoughts I wasn’t able to include in the video. Please enjoy:

 

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6 Comments »

Good instructional video Daniel, maybe my dad can practice this at our small farm back home with the orange and kino (orange derivative fruits) trees that we have :)

March 14th, 2009 | 1:44 pm
TJ:

Nice video Daniel! I really enjoyed it.
Quick question. I just planted an apple tree (Honey Crisp) and want to graft a couple of varieties – is it too late in the season at this point?

April 22nd, 2009 | 10:11 am
admin:

TJ: I don’t know enough about you or your tree to tell you for sure. If the tree is dormant, you can graft using the technique I do… however, the scions must also come from dormant trees. Here (hardiness zone 5b), trees are awake, so grafting is out of the question. But in zone 4, it might not be too late (for those who garden in zone 4, I hope it is too late; enough with winter, already).

I’d suggest that your tree would be happier if it had a full season to adapt to its new home. Let it get over its discomfort from being transplanted before you introduce a new source of stress.

When the tree is growing full-tilt in the summer, you can try bud grafting or budding. I haven’t tried the technique, and from what I’ve read, it doesn’t sound quite as easy as the method I use. And, since you don’t see growth on a bud graft until next spring, you might as well wait until winter and make your grafts then.

April 22nd, 2009 | 5:01 pm
Rauf:

Thank you very much for this. Amazing……one can learn those things not possible some years ago without rising from his chair !! And thanks to the as well as the inventor of ‘WWW’.
my question is why aren’t you use conventional budding knife for the purpose?

August 28th, 2010 | 1:51 am
Rauf:

I got the translation of your werk and got the answere of my question there. so please ignore my previous comment. thanks and best regards for this practical website.

August 28th, 2010 | 2:19 am
admin:

Rauf;

Thank you for visiting! If you try grafting using this or any other method, I hope you have great success. Grafting remains one of my favorite gardening projects: it’s amazing to combine two or more organisms into one. Some of my grafted branches are now 6 or 7 inch diameter tree trunks. So cool!

-Daniel

August 28th, 2010 | 6:29 am
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